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A website dedicated to the California Kingsnakes of Southern California. On this website you will also find pages on genetics, other localities outside of Southern California, keeping and breeding, my yearly field reports, my breeding projects, captive bred morphs, a forum and more. Links are in yellow text along with all the small pictures and icons.
updated July-9-2022
CURRENT MOON
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In loving memory to my good friend Akira Shono. He had been missing from April/23/20 to May/5/20. He was 53 years old. We first met around 2012 when I gave him some offspring from my locality Cal kings. We talked for about 3 hours that day and were good friends since. He introduced me to one of the top locality king keepers, Gary Keasler, who I've also come to know and become good friends with. Akira was funny, always giving praises for this website and telling me I was like a celebrity to him. LOL I loved the guy and can't believe he's gone. I was lucky to be contacted by his sister. I was lucky enough to meet her, his other sister and his/their parents. I and was able to help them out a little with the snake collection he left behind. She gave me back some of the snakes he acquired from me. I will always keep those snakes, in memory of him. We went snake hunting and to Gary's house together several times. Doing those things will never be the same again and he will be missed.
UPDATE: I recently added 3 new pages to describe all the known Cal king morphs. I also took the info I was saving for that book that was never published and added it here as well. So, now there is some history on a few of these morphs, that was never published anywhere. Some morph history, I just could not find. The 3 new pages are called Selective bred morphs and Natural occurring morphs part 1 and 2. You can find these in the drop box under Keeping and breeding. And also, the Keeping and Breeding page has completely been redone. Link
Below: To access the various pages on this website, click on the links at the very top. For example if you click on Riverside Co. you will go to a page that shows you what I've found there. If you put the pointer on Riverside Co. a drop down box will appear saying "friends photos". Those are photos taken of Cal kings in that county by people I know. The only link up there that shows nothing is "Other locales", but if you put the pointer on it, you'll get a long drop box with different locales to choose from. There are 40 pages total including the home page.
FAQ
How do I look up what morph I have for identification? There are 3 pages dedicated specifically to all of the various morphs. These are: Selective bred morphs and Natural occurring morphs part 1 & 2. Those pages can be found in the drop down box under Keeping and breeding. Just keep in mind not all pattern types can be labeled. Some just fall under the category of aberrant.
Can I contribute photos to this website? Yes. Just go to the drop down box under Snake hunting and go to the Contact page. Send me a message saying you'd like to contribute a photo, then you will get an email back from me and you can send your photos to that email. I try to get at least one picture up for everyone. I do like the pictures to be decent, so the more nice pictures you send, the more I'll chose to put on the website. I greatly appreciate everyone's help in making this such a cool website.
Thought I'd start off by introducing my self. My name is Ross and I'm 45 years old. I started this website to display all my Cal king finds and the various morphs I had come across in the wild. I also wanted to add Cal king photos from other So Cal herpers. That's where I got the name Southern California kingsnakes. That didn't last long though. I started adding photos from all over their range and it slowly turned into a website that covers nearly everything about Cal kings. I had a book deal that fell through back in 2013 and had actually written everything and found out the history of a lot of the morphs in detail. I recently decided just to add all that info to the website, since the book wasn't going to be published. From left to right in this photo is Mike D., Eric Yee, me (Ross Padilla) in the black shirt, Donald Schultz posing a Rosy boa, Philip Clevinger, William Flaxington (aka Fieldnotes), Myke Clarkson (aka Snake Master Myke). The Rosy boa was found this day by Mike D.
Several ruber were found this day along with a Lyre snake. The photo to the left is Donald Schultz with the ruber I found. In the photo to the right is Eric Yee, Mike Kolb, Jeff Mints, and Myke Clarkson. As you can see, Jeff is securing a ruber they found in a crevice.
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I highly recommend getting a copy of Brian Hubbs book on Common kingsnakes. The information on kingsnakes in this book surpasses any other publication ever written. Brian Hubbs has helped me out immensely over the years. Without him, I doubt I would have found the various Cal king morphs I have since 2006. I also probably never would have put this site together. From Hubbs, I've experienced first hand how special it is to give to someone. He gave me a lot of information before the book was even published, which is something I could never thank him enough for. Now I'd like to give back and I hope this website serves that purpose. I don't know if I could ever inspire someone like Hubbs inspired me, but if you guys could take a little something from this site and appreciate Cal kings a little more, it will have served its purpose. I'd also like to acknowledge I was helped out early on by Brian Hinds (Fundad) and Paul Lynum. I could never thank them enough for being there when I craved this information the most.
Listen to an interview with Brian Hubbs on Urban Jungle Radio. Interview
starts at 48:30. click on the right side of the play button to forward.
starts at 48:30. click on the right side of the play button to forward.
Listen to internet radio with Danny Mendez on Blog Talk Radio
The first Cal king poster I remember seeing, made in 2009. Not available any more.
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Aaron Mattson
Adam Deviney Adam Helbert Adam Swain Alan St. John Allen Kazlaskia Andreas Kettenburg Andrew Louros Andrew J Senski Andrew Zwart Andy O'Connor Anthony Greco Anthony Jensen Ashley Justice Aubrey Ross Augusta Sacchetta Avyron Bart Bruno Ben Givogri Benjamin Jones BHB Enterprises Bill Corwin Bill Love Bill Townsend Billy Fraser Bob Montoya Bobby MacGregor Brad Chambers Brad Sillasen Brendan O'Connor Brian Breikss Brian Eagar Brian Hinds Brian Hubbs Brian Mercer Brian Rupert Bryan Starrett Bryce Anderson Bryce Stephenson Byron De Stouet Caleb Holbrook Cameron Jacobs Cameron Rognan Carla Boehmer Chad Lane Chad Whitney Chantel McMillan Charles Thompson Chris Conard Chris Gough Chris Rodriguez Chris Sharp Chris Van Egmond Chryss Mavrides Clayton Carlile Clint Guadiana Cody Merrylees Coils Dallas Jolly Dan Macklin Daniel Barnett Daniel Bryan Daniel Dye Daniel Lawrence Daniel Parker Dave Feliz |
Dave Long
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Jeff Hathcock
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Marc Linsalatsa
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Rich Morgan
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Within the past 50 years, many people have become fascinated with snakes and have taken that to the next level by keeping and breeding them in captivity. Herpetoculture, the keeping and breeding of reptiles and amphibians, has seen rapid growth over the last few decades. This has allowed for an increase in the amount of species available to private collectors. Color and pattern morphs are being bred in high numbers as well. There is also a greater understanding of how to maintain these animals and successfully breed them in captivity. In the beginning, CA kingsnakes were among the most popular snakes to keep as pets. They are still one of the most widely kept snake species in captivity. This popularity and ease of keeping still makes California Kingsnakes one of the best choices for first time snake owners. California kingsnakes being easy to keep, maintain, and successfully breed in captivity, are also highly variable throughout their natural range, with many different genetic morphs found in the wild. In captivity, they are more variable due to selective breeding. These are considered 'hobby' California Kingsnakes.
The scientific name for the California kingsnake is recognized as Lampropeltis getula californiae. The Lampropeltis Genus is very popular in herpetoculture. It includes all Milk snakes, Mountain kings, Prairie kingsnakes, mole kingsnakes, Short tail snakes, Mexicana kingsnakes and all Common kingsnakes. The California kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula californiae) is a subspecies of the common kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula), which ranges from the east coast to the west coast of the United States and southward into northern Mexico.
Henri Marie Ducrotay de Blainville, a French zoologist first described the California Kingsnake as Coluber Californiae in 1835. Blainville was widely known for separating reptilia and amphibia and also coining the term "Paleontology". Because this species is so variable (polymorphic) in nature, it was broken into several different species and subspecies early on. By the early 1900's all forms of the California kingsnakes became known as one subspecies of the common kingsnake. In recent years, geneticists have started using DNA analysis to classify species rather than going only on their outward appearance or phenotype. This has lead to the reclassification of many species. Some species have been merged together, and others separated. This has also lead to a great amount of disagreement among hobbyists and taxonomists alike. In 2009, R. Alexander Pyron and Frank Burbrink in their paper, "Systematics of the Common kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula; Serpents: Colubridae) and the Burden of Heritage in Taxonomy", have broken the getula group into different species. They merged the California Kingsnake (L. g. californiae) and the Mexican Black Kingsnake (L. g. nigrita) into one species known as Lampropeltis californiae. This has caused disagreement among many hobbyists. Only time will tell if this paper becomes widely accepted throughout herpetoculture and the scientific community. I am not qualified to say whether the scientists are right or wrong on their classification for californiae, but I've decided to continue recognizing californiae as a subspecies of the getula group for now.
The scientific name for the California kingsnake is recognized as Lampropeltis getula californiae. The Lampropeltis Genus is very popular in herpetoculture. It includes all Milk snakes, Mountain kings, Prairie kingsnakes, mole kingsnakes, Short tail snakes, Mexicana kingsnakes and all Common kingsnakes. The California kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula californiae) is a subspecies of the common kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula), which ranges from the east coast to the west coast of the United States and southward into northern Mexico.
Henri Marie Ducrotay de Blainville, a French zoologist first described the California Kingsnake as Coluber Californiae in 1835. Blainville was widely known for separating reptilia and amphibia and also coining the term "Paleontology". Because this species is so variable (polymorphic) in nature, it was broken into several different species and subspecies early on. By the early 1900's all forms of the California kingsnakes became known as one subspecies of the common kingsnake. In recent years, geneticists have started using DNA analysis to classify species rather than going only on their outward appearance or phenotype. This has lead to the reclassification of many species. Some species have been merged together, and others separated. This has also lead to a great amount of disagreement among hobbyists and taxonomists alike. In 2009, R. Alexander Pyron and Frank Burbrink in their paper, "Systematics of the Common kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula; Serpents: Colubridae) and the Burden of Heritage in Taxonomy", have broken the getula group into different species. They merged the California Kingsnake (L. g. californiae) and the Mexican Black Kingsnake (L. g. nigrita) into one species known as Lampropeltis californiae. This has caused disagreement among many hobbyists. Only time will tell if this paper becomes widely accepted throughout herpetoculture and the scientific community. I am not qualified to say whether the scientists are right or wrong on their classification for californiae, but I've decided to continue recognizing californiae as a subspecies of the getula group for now.
Going back as early as 1964, Frank Retes bred a pair of striped California kingsnakes. Frank was among the first people to breed this species, or any species of snake for that matter, in captivity. Frank, being a field herper, was able to acquire several different morphs from the Southern CA area and began breeding them. By 1970 Frank was known for his Cal king morphs, but there was not much of a market for them yet. In the early 1970's an albino Cal king was found in Balboa Park San Diego Co. The San Diego zoo acquired this snake. Sometime in the early 70's the new curator got rid of it by trading it for a couple of snakes. Not long later, Ted Davis purchased that Albino Cal king for $300. This was unheard of at the time for native species. He was able to breed it once and produced 3 heterozygous offspring. In 1974 Ted Davis gave that albino to Frank Retes. Frank described it as being old and aging quickly. He was able to breed it once to several females including the hets Ted had produced. In 1976 Frank produced albinos for the first time and refused to sell any under $300. This helped set the stage for marketing Cal kings. There is also a man by the name of John Ruiz who Frank believes was the number one guy for creating the market for California kingsnakes in California. He would buy kings from Frank and other breeders and sell them. He was very selective with who he sold to and was sure not to sell them too cheap. This gave snakes value and made them marketable.
California kingsnakes are now a very popular pet species worldwide, with many being bred in Europe, Japan and China. They have even become an invasive species on the Gran Canaria Island off the coast of North Western Africa. This is obviously due to released or escaped pets. That's why it is very important for new snake keepers to be aware of their new responsibilities for these magnificent animals. This website will serve as a thorough guide for successfully keeping and breeding California kingsnakes in captivity. I will also cover husbandry, natural history, genetics, natural and selective bred morphs.
California kingsnakes are now a very popular pet species worldwide, with many being bred in Europe, Japan and China. They have even become an invasive species on the Gran Canaria Island off the coast of North Western Africa. This is obviously due to released or escaped pets. That's why it is very important for new snake keepers to be aware of their new responsibilities for these magnificent animals. This website will serve as a thorough guide for successfully keeping and breeding California kingsnakes in captivity. I will also cover husbandry, natural history, genetics, natural and selective bred morphs.
Color
The California kingsnake is generally a two toned snake. Some juveniles may have a pale orange coloration to their ventral scales, but this disappears with age. The dark markings on an adult range from light brown to very dark brown. Juveniles are dark brown to black. Only juveniles appear to be black. I’ve never seen an adult that was truly black. Some adults are a very dark shade of brown that may appear black, but when viewed under the sun, they are noticeably very dark brown. Even a bright flash from a camera might not reveal this dark brown coloration. Juveniles that start out black, will fade to a darker shade of brown. And those that start out dark brown will lighten to various shades of light to medium brown. The light markings range from bright yellow to white. Some juveniles yellow coloration will intensify as they mature, others will have their yellow dull out a little. Juveniles that start of white, can get a yellow tint with age. See “Coastal and Desert phase” for more on this.
size
Juveniles are roughly 10-13” right after they hatch. Runts will be less than 10 inches. Adults average 3-5’ in length. Some have been known to reach 6’ in captivity. I saw a 6 foot captive raised specimen one time and it is an amazing thing to see in person. Grismer (2002) reports wild adults reaching nearly 78” on Islas Angel de la Guarda, Baja California.
range
The California kingsnake is common throughout its range. They are found from SW Oregon all the way down to the southern tip of Baja California. From California, they range from western Nevada and southern Nevada, through southern Utah to the tip of SW Colorado and NW New Mexico. Their distribution is spotty in Arizona where they intergrade with Desert kingsnakes and Mexican Black kingsnakes in the SE part of the state. They seem to be absent at very high elevations in the mountains throughout their range, but it isn’t exactly clear at what elevation the cut off is. That cut off likely varies from one mountain range to the next. They have been recorded as high as 7,100’ in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains in Northern California.
habitat
California kingsnakes are also found in most habitat types throughout their range, from coastal grassland to the driest deserts. These habitat types consist of rolling grassland, rocky hills, forests that are not too dense, meadows, grassy hills which may contain mustard and many more. In drier areas like Western Riverside County, I’ve noticed they are more common in little valleys between hills where there is a bit more moisture. The only habitats that seem too unsuitable are those that don’t allow much access to the sunlight like dense wooded areas and very thick brush. Snakes are cold blooded animals, so they rely on heat from the sunlight to aid them is shedding, digesting, and in some cases their developing eggs. Cal kings are not known to bask in the sun like lizards and turtles. They get their heat by laying near the surface in rodent holes or resting under surface objects like flat rocks. They may also use artificial cover, such as boards and other discards. They can also be found inside of rock crevices that face the sun. This process is called thermoregulation and it is very important they have access to heat for their survival. As long as Cal kings have a way to perform these activities, they can thrive nearly anywhere.
prey
All kingsnakes are constrictors, meaning they normally wrap tightly around their prey to suffocate it. While in the process of constricting, the prey can easily exhale, but inhaling is extremely difficult to impossible. This is what suffocates its prey. Cal kings are also very good at pushing prey items up against solid objects to subdue them. This appears to be utilized more while crawling through narrow rodent tunnels. They may even sometimes get ahold of two prey items at the same time and constrict both at the same time using different parts of their bodies. This activity is known as dual-constriction. Cal kings will eat a variety of food items, but this can vary from one individual to the next. Juveniles will consume other juvenile snakes, including other Cal kings, fish, lizards and mice. Adults will eat amphibians, birds, rodents, lizards and their eggs. In 2006 I found an adult coastal phase Cal king crawling around a trash pile in Western Riverside County. I picked it up and noticed it had swallowed a big meal. The snake quickly became upset and began to move the front part of its body in a wavy motion. I knew right away it was getting ready to regurge its meal, so I sat it down and waited. Unfortunately it ended up regurgitating a baby rabbit. Adult Cal kings are also fond of other Cal kings and snakes including rattlesnakes. They are immune to their venom and only a fang through the skull or heart might prove fatal. Because they will eat rattlesnakes, they are often labeled “good snakes”. There are reports of young Cal kings eating insects, but I have not witnessed this myself.
hibernation
In areas with very cold winters, Cal kings are forced to hibernate during cold weather. Their time is spend deep in rodent holes where the temperatures don't freeze. I don’t think they truly hibernate like a bear in a deep sleep, but they are considerably less active. This time in their lives is more commonly referred to as brumation, because this inactivity doesn’t meet the exact definition of hibernation. In captivity, when forced to brumate or hibernate at cold temps, they will slow down considerably, even in their movements and reactions, but they can still be active enough to crawl around and drink water. In the wild, they may hibernate 5 months or more. This is more likely to happen at high elevations. This period of inactivity starts in the fall and ends from around February to April, depending on location. I’ve found Cal kings to be active all year long in Southern CA, but they are considerably less active in the winter months. I have often found DOR’s on sunny days that followed heavy rains in January. I have also found them under boards every month of the winter in Southern California, but that has only been on occasion. Adults are found less often than juveniles during winter.
longevity
It is unknown what the average lifespan of a California kingsnake is in the wild, but we have a pretty good idea what to expect for Cal kings living in captivity. If your Cal king makes it well into its 20’s, you did a good job maintaining it in captivity. There are reports of Cal kings exceeding 30 years in captivity. Here is what Frank Retes had to say about two different individuals that lived very long.
"The original (founder) albino cal king lived to 35 and had lots and lots of offspring that eventually covered the world. This animal was originally from Balboa park and was at the zoo for years, before getting into private hands. I received this animal from my late friend Ted Davis. I bred that animal to death, well it would have killed me. hahahahahaha it was retired into the hands of Ross Adcock, also of San Diego, where he had it until it died.
Also Bill Wooden had a Cal king (az. locality) that lived to over 40 (i believe). Mr. Wooden kept this king, a pyro and I believe a Rock rattlesnake, at room temps and fed them 8 times a year, they never reached full size."
Recently a Cal king that was about 40 years old, died on September 27 2014. In 2012, I was fortunate enough to hear Don Yamagami’s story about what may have been the oldest living California kingsnake in captivity at the time. Here’s the full story told by Don in 2012:
"I found him when he was a baby, so he has gone from pinkies, to baby mice (live), to adult mice, to baby rats, and now back to adult mice (still eating live mice). There were times when he was in his 20's that I would have to hold the mouse by the tail to feed. But, in his 30's, he is actually stronger and faster than before and can eat on his own. Last year I put two adult mice in his cage and he wrapped around both at the same time. Amazing guy. He has never been to a vet and has never stopped eating or shedding.
I live in warmer climate (Bay Area) and the snake has always been indoors (glass/plastic containers), so I have never used a heating pad or humidifier, only an occasional rock warmer in the winter. This may be against normal caging instructions, but I was only 4-5 years old when I found him and started caring for him. He has lived on cedar shavings, but during the last 15 years, he seems to prefer plain newspaper.
For most of my snake's life he has eaten at least weekly during the summer months, bi-weekly or every three weeks during cooler months, and then monthly (or sometime longer) during winter months. Our house temperature never gets below 60 degrees and living in the Bay Area, the house is usually in the mid-to-upper 70's. I never tried to intentionally brumate the snake, but during the winter when the house temperature is about 62-66 degrees, he does become less active, although I will turn on a heat rock for him when he becomes active in the winter."
On september 14 2014, Don contacted me and here’s what he had to say:
“Hi Ross,
I think my kingsnake (Evel) is finally on his last legs. Lately, he was eating his live mice, but then throwing them back up. And, now he has lost weight, gotten shorter, and stopped eating. Just a few hours ago I thought he was dead as he was on his back (he is never on his back).
Just thought I would send you a note since you are the only snake lover that I have e-mailed with, and I don't think most people would feel the sadness of losing an old snake. I was trying to accurately calculate his age and believe he is 39-40 years old. Actually, he is probably closer to 40 since I found him (when I was 4 years old) and named him after Evel Knievel (who made his famous jump over the Snake River in September, 1974).
Best regards,
Don Yamagami”
This was sad news and I’m pretty sure a very sad time for Don, as this pet goes back about as far as he can remember in his life. Just imagine that. On September 28, he got back to me with the following news:
Hi Ross,
Thanks for checking.
We just buried Evel. He passed away last night. I checked on him last night and he looked ok (he was looking a little better the past week). I am glad he did not die flipped over - he was just kind of frozen still.
I'm at a loss for words. But, I tell my family that he lived a good life and died just a few hundred yards from where I found him when I was a kid. He seemed smaller these past few months, and when I measured him, he was just 4 feet. He had a blue spot on his belly that probably formed these past few weeks.
I'm sure I will come across another kingsnake around my house while hiking. Not sure if this time I would try to catch it and keep it as a pet. My daughter has a milk snake - I think that is enough.
I really am at a loss for words right now. I thank you for your kindness and mutual love for kingsnakes.
Best regards,
Don
My heart went out to Don during that difficult time and I assured him his story would not be forgotten.
"The original (founder) albino cal king lived to 35 and had lots and lots of offspring that eventually covered the world. This animal was originally from Balboa park and was at the zoo for years, before getting into private hands. I received this animal from my late friend Ted Davis. I bred that animal to death, well it would have killed me. hahahahahaha it was retired into the hands of Ross Adcock, also of San Diego, where he had it until it died.
Also Bill Wooden had a Cal king (az. locality) that lived to over 40 (i believe). Mr. Wooden kept this king, a pyro and I believe a Rock rattlesnake, at room temps and fed them 8 times a year, they never reached full size."
Recently a Cal king that was about 40 years old, died on September 27 2014. In 2012, I was fortunate enough to hear Don Yamagami’s story about what may have been the oldest living California kingsnake in captivity at the time. Here’s the full story told by Don in 2012:
"I found him when he was a baby, so he has gone from pinkies, to baby mice (live), to adult mice, to baby rats, and now back to adult mice (still eating live mice). There were times when he was in his 20's that I would have to hold the mouse by the tail to feed. But, in his 30's, he is actually stronger and faster than before and can eat on his own. Last year I put two adult mice in his cage and he wrapped around both at the same time. Amazing guy. He has never been to a vet and has never stopped eating or shedding.
I live in warmer climate (Bay Area) and the snake has always been indoors (glass/plastic containers), so I have never used a heating pad or humidifier, only an occasional rock warmer in the winter. This may be against normal caging instructions, but I was only 4-5 years old when I found him and started caring for him. He has lived on cedar shavings, but during the last 15 years, he seems to prefer plain newspaper.
For most of my snake's life he has eaten at least weekly during the summer months, bi-weekly or every three weeks during cooler months, and then monthly (or sometime longer) during winter months. Our house temperature never gets below 60 degrees and living in the Bay Area, the house is usually in the mid-to-upper 70's. I never tried to intentionally brumate the snake, but during the winter when the house temperature is about 62-66 degrees, he does become less active, although I will turn on a heat rock for him when he becomes active in the winter."
On september 14 2014, Don contacted me and here’s what he had to say:
“Hi Ross,
I think my kingsnake (Evel) is finally on his last legs. Lately, he was eating his live mice, but then throwing them back up. And, now he has lost weight, gotten shorter, and stopped eating. Just a few hours ago I thought he was dead as he was on his back (he is never on his back).
Just thought I would send you a note since you are the only snake lover that I have e-mailed with, and I don't think most people would feel the sadness of losing an old snake. I was trying to accurately calculate his age and believe he is 39-40 years old. Actually, he is probably closer to 40 since I found him (when I was 4 years old) and named him after Evel Knievel (who made his famous jump over the Snake River in September, 1974).
Best regards,
Don Yamagami”
This was sad news and I’m pretty sure a very sad time for Don, as this pet goes back about as far as he can remember in his life. Just imagine that. On September 28, he got back to me with the following news:
Hi Ross,
Thanks for checking.
We just buried Evel. He passed away last night. I checked on him last night and he looked ok (he was looking a little better the past week). I am glad he did not die flipped over - he was just kind of frozen still.
I'm at a loss for words. But, I tell my family that he lived a good life and died just a few hundred yards from where I found him when I was a kid. He seemed smaller these past few months, and when I measured him, he was just 4 feet. He had a blue spot on his belly that probably formed these past few weeks.
I'm sure I will come across another kingsnake around my house while hiking. Not sure if this time I would try to catch it and keep it as a pet. My daughter has a milk snake - I think that is enough.
I really am at a loss for words right now. I thank you for your kindness and mutual love for kingsnakes.
Best regards,
Don
My heart went out to Don during that difficult time and I assured him his story would not be forgotten.
If you are seriously thinking about getting a California kingsnake, be sure that is exactly what you want. Don’t be impulsive, these animals live for years and we as keepers are responsible for taking care of them to the best of our abilities. Its just sad how many different snakes fall into the hands of owners that don’t take proper care of them. You don’t know who will end up with your snake if you get rid of it, but if you commit to your responsibility, your snake could live many good years in your care.
There are several different ways to purchase a Cal king. One of the most popular ways now days is shopping online. There are many online reptile suppliers, classified ads and breeders you can buy directly from. I tend to go with the breeders for the simple fact they can answer your questions about the snake you are looking to purchase, much better than most suppliers. If you are looking for a particular morph, you may have a hard time finding them available anywhere. That’s how it goes with Cal king morphs and locality kings, availability is often very different from one year to the next. Some morphs that are available for many years, can all of the sudden become very hard to find. Some breeders that might have them, are not connected to the internet.
If you’re not into shopping online and not looking for anything too specific, Cal kings are often available at pet shops and reptile stores in your area. Each year around hatching time (Sept.), there are reptile shows in most large cities that usually have a much better selection than most pet shops or reptile stores. One thing good about being able to see your snake in person before purchasing it, is you can check over its health real good before committing to the purchase. The first thing you want to check for is mites on the snake. Mites look like little black particles of pepper. They can often be found crawling on the snake. If you let the snake crawl through your hands, you may see these little black mites crawling on your hands if the snake has a serious infestation of them. You can also use a white paper towel to wipe the snake with and if it has enough mites, they will be very noticeable on the white paper towel. Mites are also often found around the eyes and under scales found under the chin, but definitely not confined to these areas. Sometimes a snake will have mites and you will not be able to find them, so look very close at its scales for mite damage. Damaged scales will appear randomly throughout the snakes body and look shriveled up. The snake should also not feel limp in any way. It should have good muscle tone continuously flick its tongue in and out rapidly. Check its eyes and be sure they look clear with no signs of retained eye caps from a previous shed. Also be sure the snake keeps its mouth shut at all times and is not gasping for air through its mouth. There should be no discharge of mucus through its nostrils or mouth and there should be no signs of a crusty build up in those areas.
If you decide to purchase your snake on line, you will have to wait until you receive the snake before checking it over. Never open the box anywhere near your snake collection. If there are mites in the box, they can easily be transferred to your snakes. If the snake is in a cloth bag, turn it inside out and inspect it for mites. If you find any problems with the snake, contact the breeder immediately. Also be sure there is a guarantee before purchasing the snake on line. Its highly recommended to place newly acquired snakes in quarantine for at least 60 days, but preferably 90. This involves keeping it in a cage in another area away from your main collection. Use white paper towels as a substrate and keep items within the tank to a bare minimum. If there are any unseen mites on the newly acquired snake, they should show up at some point during this time. Always wash your hands after handling the new snake. If the snake still looks perfectly fine after the 60-90 day period, it should be safe to introduce him to your main collection area. Please check out this link for additional information: Before buying.
There are several different ways to purchase a Cal king. One of the most popular ways now days is shopping online. There are many online reptile suppliers, classified ads and breeders you can buy directly from. I tend to go with the breeders for the simple fact they can answer your questions about the snake you are looking to purchase, much better than most suppliers. If you are looking for a particular morph, you may have a hard time finding them available anywhere. That’s how it goes with Cal king morphs and locality kings, availability is often very different from one year to the next. Some morphs that are available for many years, can all of the sudden become very hard to find. Some breeders that might have them, are not connected to the internet.
If you’re not into shopping online and not looking for anything too specific, Cal kings are often available at pet shops and reptile stores in your area. Each year around hatching time (Sept.), there are reptile shows in most large cities that usually have a much better selection than most pet shops or reptile stores. One thing good about being able to see your snake in person before purchasing it, is you can check over its health real good before committing to the purchase. The first thing you want to check for is mites on the snake. Mites look like little black particles of pepper. They can often be found crawling on the snake. If you let the snake crawl through your hands, you may see these little black mites crawling on your hands if the snake has a serious infestation of them. You can also use a white paper towel to wipe the snake with and if it has enough mites, they will be very noticeable on the white paper towel. Mites are also often found around the eyes and under scales found under the chin, but definitely not confined to these areas. Sometimes a snake will have mites and you will not be able to find them, so look very close at its scales for mite damage. Damaged scales will appear randomly throughout the snakes body and look shriveled up. The snake should also not feel limp in any way. It should have good muscle tone continuously flick its tongue in and out rapidly. Check its eyes and be sure they look clear with no signs of retained eye caps from a previous shed. Also be sure the snake keeps its mouth shut at all times and is not gasping for air through its mouth. There should be no discharge of mucus through its nostrils or mouth and there should be no signs of a crusty build up in those areas.
If you decide to purchase your snake on line, you will have to wait until you receive the snake before checking it over. Never open the box anywhere near your snake collection. If there are mites in the box, they can easily be transferred to your snakes. If the snake is in a cloth bag, turn it inside out and inspect it for mites. If you find any problems with the snake, contact the breeder immediately. Also be sure there is a guarantee before purchasing the snake on line. Its highly recommended to place newly acquired snakes in quarantine for at least 60 days, but preferably 90. This involves keeping it in a cage in another area away from your main collection. Use white paper towels as a substrate and keep items within the tank to a bare minimum. If there are any unseen mites on the newly acquired snake, they should show up at some point during this time. Always wash your hands after handling the new snake. If the snake still looks perfectly fine after the 60-90 day period, it should be safe to introduce him to your main collection area. Please check out this link for additional information: Before buying.
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Contact Brian for a copy of his book.
OK, here's the Book deal:
New Venomous redo of the rattler book - $19.95 + $4 shipping
Common Kingsnakes - $60+$5 shipping
Mtn Kings - $45 + $5 shipping
or both big books for $90 postpaid, or all 3 for $110 shipped.
And if you want to add Hubbs newest book Harmless Snakes of the West, that will be $120 shipped for all 4.
Paypal to: [email protected] but please contact him first
or send check or M.O. to: Brian Hubbs PO Bx 26407, Tempe, AZ 85285
or call 480-456-5202
New Venomous redo of the rattler book - $19.95 + $4 shipping
Common Kingsnakes - $60+$5 shipping
Mtn Kings - $45 + $5 shipping
or both big books for $90 postpaid, or all 3 for $110 shipped.
And if you want to add Hubbs newest book Harmless Snakes of the West, that will be $120 shipped for all 4.
Paypal to: [email protected] but please contact him first
or send check or M.O. to: Brian Hubbs PO Bx 26407, Tempe, AZ 85285
or call 480-456-5202
Its a snake eat snake world
Two year target acquired!
Kingsnake elevation limit?
Hypo Highway morph
aberrant cal kings!!!!
Adventure princesses go herping...
Los angeles kings....and other snakes
long time listener, first time caller
I'll play the morph game
Odd king indeed
lets talk bandeds and "favorite" color
i have *spotted* a king!
what kinda king izzat
what kinda king izzit...
hey ross padilla, greate website!
A locality Cal king breeding produces a very rare morph
Its interesting seeing all the places where people have viewed this website.
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